Saturday, January 16, 2010

Vitamin C Serums Exposed! How to find a GOOD C Serum

The TRUTH about Anti Aging Products.
Or as I like to call it.... Anti Aging Exposed!

Vitamin C Serums

Topical vitamin C performs three different functions in skin metabolism: as an antioxidant, as an inhibitor of melanin, and as a stimulator of collagen synthesis. As an antioxidant, vitamin C prevents or suppresses the development of skin cancer caused by UVA and UVB exposure. As a melanin inhibitor, vitamin C helps to lighten the skin. And by stimulating collagen synthesis, vitamin C accelerates skin firming and helps to prevent fine lines.

Applied topically, l-ascorbic acid:
1. Improves the appearance of skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles and protects and lessens the effects of sunburns. It also protects the skin from free-radical attack, and
prevents skin cell damage due to ultraviolet radiation
  1. Once L-Ascorbic acid penetrates the skin, it stays there for up to 72 hours. This means that a properly formulated topical vitamin-C product can have a long lasting effect in the skin.
  2. Fast acting, results can be seen in just a few days or weeks of use. Improvement in skin texture and skin tone is easily noticeable after several days of use. Depressed scars may take several months to be normalized.
Vitamin C was originally used in skin care products in the form of ascorbic acid. At a 10% concentration and low ph, ascorbic acid has been shown to stimulate collagen, decrease wrinkle depth and have lightening effects on pigmentation. It was thought that a minimum 20% concentration was required but newer information indicate that lower concentration (10%) may have benefit. It is best to stay with products that have this concentration or above.
Important Facts about vitamin C serums on the market:
* Consumer beware - not all products contain sufficient vitamin C to be of benefit. Most products on the market do not have sufficient concentration to be of benefit to the skin. Many companies, keen to cash in on the market trends for antioxidants in skin care, put only miniscule amounts in and consumers unknowingly will buy a product that will be of no benefit. Unfortunately you cannot judge from the prestige or price of the product you buy, you need to look at the concentrations, the form of vitamin C, what is being used to stabilize it and the other ingredients.
* Vitamin C in the form of Ascorbic Acid is very expensive. Vitamin C is very unstable and difficult to get into a formulation, this in part explains why ascorbic acid skin products tend to be very expensive. However, if formulated correctly they are the Holy Grail of skin care. The fountain of youth in a bottle.
* The biggest problem with Ascorbic Acid creams and serums is that when they are not properly formulated (9 out of 10 are not) they are unstable, they are oxidised very quickly and once it is oxidised it does not provide any benefit to the skin at all. Worse yet, it may cause more damage to your skin.
* Vitamin C derivatives are cheaper, but much less effective. There are newer derivatives of Vitamin C: Ascorbyl palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and some of these are proving not to have any effect on collagen stimulation. If the product contains any of these as their main ingredient (often known as vitamin C Ester or Ester C) you are throwing your money away.
The problem with this form (Ester) of vitamin C is that-
1. It is an inferior form of vitamin C.
2. They are only soluble in a silicone base and sometimes a fat/oil base and not at all in water.
3. They do not penetrate the skin, but rather sit "on top" of the skin, where they have no real benefit.
*** Now, lets talk about Ascorbic Acid Serums ***
L- Ascorbic Acid is the most potent form of vitamin C. It is also the form that is best absorbed by the skin and has the greatest effect. It is also the most unstable form of vitamin C and is often spoiled by the time the product hits the store shelf.
If formulated properly, L- Ascobric Acid will remain potent and unoxidized. The problem with stabilizing this formula is the need for added ingredients. These ingredients are VERY expensive and are impossible to obtain without a manufacturing license. Note, I said MANUFACTURING license... NOT a regular business License. This means the person purchasing it needs to be licensed through their state to manufacture cosmetics. This isn't a "home business" type of deal.
This super magical ingredient is:
Ferulic Acid

Ferulic acid is an organic compound (phenol) that is an abundant phenolic phytochemical found in plant cell walls. Like many phenols, is an antioxidant in the sense that it is reactive toward free radicals such as reactive oxygen species (ROS). ROS and free radicals are implicated in DNA damage, cancer, accelerated cell aging. Animal studies and in vitro studies suggest that ferulic acid may have direct antitumor activity against breast cancer and liver cancer. Ferulic acid may have pro-apoptotic effects in cancer cells, thereby leading to their destruction. Ferulic acid may be effective at preventing cancer induced by exposure to the carcinogenic compounds

When used in a serum, Ferulic acid not only helps to stabilize L- Ascorbic Acid, it delivers an unprecedented 8 times the skin's natural protection against photoaging - neutralizing free radicals, helping build collagen, and providing unmatched antioxidant protection. Ferulic acid doubles the already synergistic benefits vitamin C serums, transforming it into an unrivaled super-antioxidant combination.

Consumer beware- Ferulic acid is VERY expensive (more than $10 a gram) and is only available for sale to manufacturers., trust me I know! I had to jump thru hoops in order to be able to get mine.
There are places on the web that offer cosmetic grade Ferulic acid for sale cheap, but rest assured, it is either NOT ferulic Acid (some sites sell filler ingredients and label it as ferulic to make money) or it is an impure form (less than 10% pure. For shittz and giggles, we've tested some that was made available for consumers (I can not list the sites here) and the best we were able to find (from 17 different sites) was the order we got from a site that sold DIY skin care ingredients and it was shown to only be 8% pure!
In order for Ferulic Acid to be effective, it needs to be pharmaceutical grade and at least 99% pure. If someone claims they have a product for sale with Ferulic acid, ask to see the COA. If they don't know what a COA is, or wont give it to you, then you KNOW it's bunk. Even if you do see one, if it is a text file (they can be faked) and not an official looking document from a manufacturer, it's bunk!

All in all, it can be said that a good stable vitamin c serum will give you added stimulation for collagen cell formation which will result in a more youthful appearance due to reduced fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it will in fact work to replenish your skin with all the necessary ingredients that are caused by exposure to the environment, stress and poor diet. Overall Vitamin C serum packs a powerful punch for the skin.

Everyday Diva Vitamin C + E + Ferulic Acid will be available for sale March 1, 2010 at  Our Etsy Shop