Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Diazolidinyl Urea and why you should avoid it

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Diazolidinyl Urea prevents or retards bacterial growth, and thus protects cosmetics and personal care products from spoilage. If a product contains Diazolidinyl Urea, chances are your product was
sitting on a shelf in a warehouse for 6 months
Diazolidinyl Urea is a formaldehyde releaser and a skin irritant.

Skin care products that are made fresh should not need these types of preservatives.
There are much safer preservatives that can be used to maintain the freshness and quality of products.

Let's leave the formaldehyde for the morticians ... and keep it out of skin care!

Monday, January 25, 2010

Quality Control begins with the raw materials

I've already blogged about cosmetic grade vs. pharmaceutical grade... But, I've noticed that skin care companies will try to get around admitting to using cosmetic grade ingredients by saying that they are using FOOD GRADE ingredients. So, let's take a look at that...
Nearly 75% of men and women use some kind of skin care product each day. There are literally thousands of brands and millions of products to choose from. Is there really a difference between them?
Fact #1: The FDA manufacturing standards are not rigid enough for skin care products but are improving every year as research delivers warnings about the dangers of many different chemical such as FD&C dyes, sodium salts, sulfates, and propylene glycol.
Is there a difference between vitamin ingredients?
The FDA allows questionable fillers and binders such as; cork by products, chemical FD&C dyes, sodium salts, sulfates, and propylene glycol to name only a few. Although these ingredients may be legal, what are their benefits? Reports have indicate that some of these ingredients can be toxic at certain levels with prolong use.
The FDA typically does not monitor the contents or purity of most skin care products but at BB*Jayde we do. Every single raw ingredient is test by us and a 3rd party QC lab for purity and potency.
Purity: What does it really mean? ---Defined: The quality or state of being pure or unmixed with any other element.
In most cases, Impure ingredients are used by many companies. The FDA does not require manufacturers to list these ingredients on the labels. Many times the raw materials may contain only 50% or less of the listed ingredients along with 50% or more corn starch and other fillers. These fillers are known allergens for some people. These items have been known to cause irritation and weaken the immune system. A conscientious company will not compromise the integrity of a product with such raw materials.

Hypoallergenic: What does it really mean? --- Defined: non-allergy producing. A term applied to a preparation in which every possible care has been taken in formulation and production to ensure minimum instance of allergic reactions. (Blakiston's Medical Dictionary)
Facts #2: Not all products are created equal
Pharmaceutical Grade: What does it mean?
There are basically three different grades of raw materials used in products they are:
  • Pharmaceutical Grade - meets pharmaceutical standards and is 99% or greater purity.
  • Food Grade - filler ingredients must meet standards set for human consumption
  • Cosmetic Grade - meets standards set for use externally. Must contain at least 50% of the ingredient, may also contain 50% impurities and up to 30% bacteria.

The difference between each grade type is one of quality and purity. In technical terms, no substance is 100% pure, for there are always other substances added to various products. The difference between the grades is one of how much of these other substances are present in the product.
There are several criteria by which pharmaceutical grade are judged. The product must be in excess of 99% purity with no binders, fillers, excipients, dyes, or unknown substances.

United States Pharmacopeia (USP)
The USP provides assurance to the consumer, as well as those involved in manufacturing and processing, that the quality and purity of the raw materials utilized are of pharmaceutical grade.
The bottom line is, if the product is not manufactured properly it may not work or could cause side effects. If you're not sure what you are buying, ask for a COA. If they can not provide a COA, then you know they are using cosmetic grade ingredients.
Fact #3: Quality Control begins with the raw materials
There are few raw material manufacturers and many many "middle men" or "suppliers"
Most companies deal with suppliers who purchase the ingredients from another supplier who purchased it from a manufacturer. As the ingredients pass thru the hands of different suppliers, each may add fillers to increase their profits.
It's best to deal with a manufacturer, however
What makes one manufacturersuperior over the other begins with how the material is grown. Raw materials and quality control is the key to an excellent skin care productt.
Questions to ask about your materials
  • Is the ingredient natural or synthesized?
  • How were they cultured?
  • Did the seeds come from organic sources?
  • Were pesticides used at any point?
  • Where were they grown?
  • How were they harvested?
  • Were fields depleted in the process?
  • How often are the fields rotated?
Quality control begins by selecting the freshest active raw materials. Immediately after harvesting is completed the product starts to age. Transporting and storing the materials in a temperature controlled environment is pertinent to insure the longevity of the items. Once the finished products reach the warehouse, rotation and inventory control is the key to maintaining fresh ingredients.
Just like food and drugs, vitamins age until they have lost their entire potency. Many people take vitamins all their life and wonder why they have medical problems. Medical problems can be magnified by improperly made, irresponsible stored or poor quality raw materials. Vitamins are a science just like drugs and all other product producing industries. Unfortunately, there will always be companies who prefer the bottom line in place of your health and quality products.
You can't always judge a product by its cover
"Ingredients" on the label do not always tell the facts. In most cases they don't even come close. Mosy skin care products do not have the amounts of active ingredients used listed on the label. Obviously, it is an impossible task for any agency to monitor every product that is on the market. This is a serious concern and is why specific procedures must be met and verified to insure consumer safety.
Globally, there are various units of measurements displayed on labels. Interpreting these labels requires the expertise of a professional who understands the difference between them along with the latest laws and regulations placed on the industry.
The DSHEA act of 1994, approved by our congress, mandated labels changes within our industry. Over the years policies and standards have been redefined. The rules and regulations have changed creating confusion to the consumers and unnecessary expenses to manufactures. Because our country trades on a global level It will take decades before a worldwide standard is set and acceptable to all governing bodies in this comprehensive industry.
How do you find quality vitamins and other active ingredients?
This is difficult for the average person. The following information is guidelines you may be able to follow.
  • The seller must maintain a temperature controlled environment.
  • The seller should not have a warehouse on or off the premises.
  • The seller should prepare a fresh batch daily by HAND. Too much is at stake to risk mass producing products on machinery.
  • The seller should be certified or have certified staff in their presence while making certain products (with vitamins or other ingredients such as essential oils)
  • The seller needs to understand how vitamins are made, must know the manufacturers and have toured many of the vitamin labs they are carrying.
  • The seller should only use pharmaceutical grade vitamins and active ingredients.

If the product is made correctly and selected accurately by the consumer the products will work for all. This is a win win situation for everyone. If the person making these products does not have the technology or knowledge to make the products correctly, then simply do not make them.
Sometime in the near future and after I get permission from my attorney, I'm going to create a list of known products that do not live up to their name or meet the criteria to be a safe and good product

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Lab studies conducted by BB*Jayde - Our serum vs. Their Serum

The following study was conducted by our lab to compare it to a popular $120/ .5oz vitamin C serum (can I name brands here without getting sued?)

Effect of dosage on photoprotection provided by BB*Jayde's Collagen Stimulating Antioxidant Serum with Vitamins C+E+Ferulic vs. The leading anti-aging Vitamin C Serum.

Skin was pretreated with our 15% vitamin C, 1% vitamin E, and 0.5% ferulic acid and irradiated with solar-simulated radiation at 1 timesMED intervals. In layman terms... The first graph shows the antioxidant protection and collagen stimulating properties of our serum after 2 doses, 4 doses, 6 doses, 8 does and 10 doses

Skin was pretreated with competitor's serum 15% vitamin C. 1% vitamin E and 1% DMAE and irradiated with solar-simulated radiation at 1 timesMED intervals. In layman terms... The second graph shows the antioxidant protection and collagen stimulating properties of the competitor's serum after 2 doses, 4 doses, 6 doses, 8 does and 10 doses

(Click for full graph)

What this study concludes is-Our Serum is clearly the better choice. The antioxidant and collagen stimulating properties were 10-20% more powerful, more potent and just overall better.

The next time you see a commercial about a skin care product line who boats of "beating the $700 creams" you can say to yourself... BB*Jayde beat the company who beat the $700 creams!

You can find it at starting February 14th

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

What you need to know about sulfates

Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate

Just 3 of the many ingredients you should avoid!
These are the most commonly used surfactants in liquid soaps, body washes & shampoo
Manufactures use these ingredients because they produce a very inexpensive product. These ingredients are harsh ammonia producing sodium salts and sulfates that were originally designed as industrial cleaning products including engine degreasers, floor cleaners, and car wash soaps, but are the primary ingredients in hygeine products because they produce a high amount of foam

Body washes or shampoos with these ingredients usually cost less than $1.00 to make an 8 ounces. It kills me when I see shampoo, cleanser and scrubs
for sale with any of these as an ingredient... They sell anywhere from $5 - $10
and they claim to have a whole lot of "good stuff" inside, but the reality is that there isn't a whole lot you can add to them in terms of "good stuff" because these bases are so volatile and most additives like vitamins, essential oils and even fragrance and preservatives will cause the PH to fall and release ammonia gas.

Wanna see something scary?

Lauryl alcohol + Sulfuric Acid + Baking Soda = Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Need I say more?

Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate (DLS)
Is a surfactant and foaming agent. It is also what is used in enemas to clean horse's bowels. Not only is it horrible to use on your skin, it's loaded with toxic impurities such as
ethylene oxide is consumed as the precursor to ethylene glycol as well as a variety of other chemicals. Ethylene glycol is more commonly known for its use as an automotive coolant and antifreeze. Other chemical applications include ethanolaminediverse surfactants, and glycol ethers such as ethoxyethanol

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate

a surfactant used in any task requiring the removal of oily stains and residues. SLS is used in industrial products including engine degreasers, floor cleaners, and car wash soaps. In household products, SLS is also used in toothpastes, shampoos, and shaving foams. It is an inexpensive alternative in toiletries and personal hygiene products for its thickening effect and its ability to create a lather.It has recently found application as a surfactant in gas hydrate or methane hydrateformation reactions, increasing the rate of formation as much as 700 times.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS)
Pretty much the same as the other 2 except that it's an AKYL Sulfate.
This molecule may cause severe irritation to eyes and skin. Inhalation may cause irritation to the respiratory system. Ingestion may cause irritation.

In a 1983 report by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, shampoos containing ALS registered health complaints. These complaints included scalp itch, allergic reactions, hair damage and eye irritation.The CIR report concluded that both sodium and ammonium lauryl sulfate “is designed for discontinuous, brief use followed by thorough rinsing from the surface of the skin. This product should not be ntended for prolonged use.

This ingredient:
yes, moderateCancer
yes, weakViolations, restrictions & warnings
noOther moderate concerns for this ingredient: Persistence and bioaccumulation, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs)
noLesser or emerging concerns for this ingredient: Ecotoxicology

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Pharmaceutical vs. Cosmetic Grade Skin Care Products. What's in YOUR products?

Ever wondered what the difference is between pharmaceutical & cosmetic grade skin care products? Well, I have the low down for you.

I guarantee you that 9 out of 10 bath & beauty or skin care products that you find for sale online or at the mall contains cosmetic grade ingredients. Most home-made (and famous brands) product makers only have access to cosmetic grade ingredients (or this is their preference because it's cheaper and they can profit more) because they purchase their supplies from re-sellers. Most of these products are bought as concentrated pre-made harmful chemical ridden bases and all they need to do is add stuff like water, oils, colors and scents, then slap a label on it, mark it up for sale for 5x (I'm not kidding) what they paid for it and call it "their own creation" Sadly, all of those "big" manufactures do this as well. They have another company make the bases and they add the water and other ingredients. Re-sellers make a mint on selling cosmetic grade ingredients because they're so cheap... so they drive up the price for the DIY'ers.
Cosmetic quality is what department, drug and grocery stores sell. These include the big and expensive brands and the cheaper ones. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) allows cosmetic grade products to contain up to 30% bacteria. This means that ingredients may only be 70% pure. It is a large breeding ground for bacteria, which can lead to contact dermatitis, an itchy red rash. This is why makeup packaging tells us to throw away any unused product every 90-180 days. And 95% of the skincare industry is cosmetic quality and unregulated by the FDA. Cosmetic companies are not required to register their products with the FDA, while cosmetic products are subjective and do not reflect or require scientific testing.
Pharmaceutical grade skin care products are FDA regulated. The FDA requires that pharmaceutical grade products be 99.9% pure ingredients. Products must contain 0.1%, or less, of bacteria. Only 5% of the skin care industry is under the regulation established by the FDA and considered pharmaceutical grade skin care products

I am happy to say that I have never and will NEVER purchase anything other than FDA regulated (complete with COA from the manufacturer and FDA) medical (pharmaceutical) grade active ingredients in their raw form directly from the company who manufactures it. I don't deal with re-sellers or middle guys (with the exception of our recycled labels) I wouldn't use it on my own body, or my own family... and I certainly wouldn't promote it and sell it to anyone else. Yes, it's expensive, BUT at least you're paying for quality and not a bunch of impurities.
See Also:

Get your custom Skin Care profile & Product Recommendations & 10% off

Answer a few simple questions and we'll send you a personalized Skin Care Profile and well as recommend products for you to help you acheive your Skin Care Goals!

Click here for your custom Skin Care profile & Product Recommendations + 10% off coupon!

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Ingredients to LOVE!

This is just SOME of ingredient that we LOVE and also use in our products... 

Hyaluronic Acid  (found in all of our facial serums)
Hyaluronic acid is a major ingredient in many medical and anti-aging therapies. It is also found in the human body like in the vitreous humor of the eye, in the synovia of joints and in the subcutaneous tissue where it acts as a cementing agent. It is a jelly like substance that fills the space between the collagen and elastin fibres. It provides mechanism of transport to the essential nutrients from the bloodstream to the living skin cells; hydrates the skin by holding water and acts as a cushioning as well as lubricating agent against mechanical and chemical damage. It is classified as a glycosaminoglycan, which has anti-inflammatory and anti-edematous properties. The main function of glycosaminoglycan is to aid in the body’s water maintenance, providing essential moisture for all the body processes and for molecular transport. With age the level of Hyaluronic acid decreases in the body that results in wrinkles and common joint pains. Since Hyaluronic Acid has such an important role in keeping us young and healthy, it is now widely used in skin care and anti aging treatments. It is very effective in reducing scars and contours of the skin. There are features and facial lines, like Frown lines that run between the eyebrows, Smoker’s lines which are vertical lines on the mouth, Marionette lines at the corner of the mouth, Worry lines across the forehead, Crow’s feet at the corner of the eye and deep smile lines that run from side of the nose to the corners of the mouth; and all of these can be corrected with the intake of Hyaluronic acid. Lip border can also be redefined and acne and normal scars can also be got rid of.

Retinol* (retinyl palmitate)

 Accelerates cell renewal and stimulates the fibroblast and collagen in the skin, thereby reducing wrinkles and fine lines. Due to its anti-oxidant properties, it is also a great anti-aging ingredient, and helps promote a softer smoother skin.

  • Increases the activity of enzymes found in the skin
  • Stimulates the mitotic activity in the epidermis and thereby helps with the process of cell division
  • Stimulates cell proliferation in the epidermis and thereby stimulates growth
  • Helps to thicken the epidermis, which becomes thinner in aging
  • Improves the elasticity of the skin
  • Helps to normalize photo (sun) damaged skin
  • Helps in wound healing
  • Stimulates collagen formation in the skin
  • Reduces UV-induced wrinkle formation
  • Regulates keratin formation
*Our retinol serum is gentle and will not cause the irritation and drying like the prescriptions (Retin-A) Not for use by pregnant women

Vitamin E
Because of its antioxidant activity, vitamin E benefits skin by protecting skin cells from UV rays, pollution, drugs, and other contaminants that produce harmful free radicals that damages skin cells. Vitamin E added to lotions, helps play a role in the anti-aging of skin. It can make skin look younger by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Also, free radicals are believed to play an important role in skin aging and therefore the antioxidant activity is valuable for this skin problem.

excellent foam booster, stabilizer and viscosity builder  for shampoos, hand soaps and bath products. This product  is derived from whole coconut and contains glycerin for added conditioning properties

botanically-derived squalane from olive oil, has the identical chemical structure and CTFA nomenclature as squalane sourced from shark liver with the benefit of being vegetal in origin. 
It has been our experience for many years that Squalane will clear up difficult skin problems (eczema, dermatitis, rashes, etc.) when nothing else helps very much. It also heals skin cracks, which are a significant health issue in the winter as germs can easily enter the body through cracked fingers/hands that have dried out from cold conditions. Squalane has these unique abilities because the oil is naturally a major factor in skin lubrication as well as providing germ killing activity when it is properly concentrated in the skin. It helps to prevent the formation of brown age spots and can protect against the radiation of the sun. In this regards it is a major oil that prevents skin aging. Squalane is also found in small quantities in olive oil, wheat germ oil, rice bran oil, and yeast.

Cocoa Butter
An aromatic solid butter pressed from the roasted seeds of the Cacao tree (Theobroma cacao) and further processed to yield a warm color and delightful odor. Will soften at body temperature and adds a rich, creamy, and thick consistency to lotions, soaps, creams, and toiletry items to help reduce cutaneous dryness and for the improvement of skin elasticity. A soothing ingredient commonly found in most cosmetic preparations

A highly prized and under-rated butter from the Garcinia tree. This naturally white and incredibly smooth butter has enormously high compositions of beneficial materials to help regenerate tired and worn skin cells and further supports elasticity and general flexibility of the skin wall. A great ingredient to add to healing lotions, creams, and body butters. It can be directly applied to the skin in its solid state, but it may require a mild amount of heating to improve applicability. Highly recommended to those that are crafting cosmetics with the intent of producing a skin healing end product.

This raw unrefined butter is derived from the vegetable fat of the Karite Tree. The first choice in natural skin care and fine body care products, this butter forms a breathable, water-resistant film and is the leading natural product for moisturizing. A wonderful base for cosmetic recipes or used as a stand alone application, this comes highly recommended for those concerned about naturally healthy skin.

Sweet Almond Oil is often used for superfatting soaps, for lotions/creams, and for lip balms. It is a great moisturizer. It makes stable lather and helps condition the skin65% oleic acid (an omega-9 fatty acid) and 27% linoleic acid (an omega-6 essential fatty acid)

Coconut Oil (NOT to be confused with fractionated coconut oil) Excellent for soap making. It has wonderful lathering and moisturizing qualities. Without its wonderful lathering quality, any soap recipe would be lacking.  Fractionated coconut oil is inferior and in my opinion, not very good.

Grape Seed Oil  is a polyunsaturated oil that is rich in linoleic acid. It is obtained from the seeds of Vitis Vinifera (Grapes) which contains about 12 percent of a drying oil which has excellent skin spread ability and penetrating qualities. The oil is obtained by cold expression. It contains the highest amounts of linoleic acid among any oil or food source. Linoleic is an essential fatty acid, which means that we must consume it in our diet since our bodies cannot produce it; It is a necessity for many functions that maintain normal cell growth throughout our body 

Jojoba oil is actually a wax. It acts as a natural anti-inflammatory and is a good choice for use in massage and for inflammed skin. It is said that its composition is similar to that of the skin's natural sebum (oil). Jojoba is a good choice for use with those that have oily or acne prone skin.

Shea Oil  offers an elegant feel, but also promotes anti-inflammatory properties due to its natural phytosterol content. Due to its high content of unsaponifiables, Shea Oil draws its traditional properties: protection of the skin against weather, sun and aging, elimination of superficial irritations. Shea is well known to assist cutaneous dryness, dermatitis and dermatoses, eczema, solar erythema and burns.

French Green Clay  has enormous absorbent powers due to the constitution of its micro molecules. It literally "drinks" oils, toxic substances, and impurities from your skin. Its toning action stimulates the skin by bringing fresh blood to damaged skin cells, revitalizing the complexion, and tightening pores. French Green Clay is marvelous for helping to clear problem skin. Use it daily on trouble spots, or weekly as part of a complete facial treatment. Mined from bedrock quarries in France, it is completely natural, unscented and fragrance free.

The best Spas across the globe utilize the toning and enriching benefits offered by Rhassoul and now it's just as easy to enjoy this splendor within your own home. High in Silica, Magnesium, Iron, Calcium, Potassium and Sodium content, this clay is surely one of the finest treasures for the pampering of your skin.